My end goal of this work is not to sell as many of these tools as I can, it is to teach other people to make them properly, so we are all working together to raise the vibrational frequency of the planet! (But yes, you can buy the tools I make!)
Here I will list the equipment I use and the methods I use to create Tensor Rings.
First is the Mindset! Before creating any energy tools, it is important to “get your mind right” so to speak. So many things in the energy realm are influenced by your intentions, Tensor Rings included. So, I will start with meditation, and then I call in higher powers and guides to help me create tools that will work for the “Best and Highest Good” for whoever may come in contact with these tools. Then while twisting the wire with a drill, I set my intentions of “Happiness, Love, Strength, Good Health, and Prosperity”. As I am doing this, the drill is in one hand, and my other hand is on the twisting wire as I am repeating these mantras, and I am using my hand in contact with the wire to impart my intentions until I am done twisting. On most of my Tensor Rings, I prefer to twist them very tight, to the point that the wires look like they are twisting at a roughly 45º twist:
IMPORTANT!!! When twisting the wires with a drill, make sure the drill is in the FORWARD DIRECTION!!! As if you were screwing in a screw. This is the method that Slim Spurling used. Slim tested both directions and determined that this created the most beneficial energy.
The Copper. I generally buy my copper in bulk rolls from one of our local hardware stores. The majority of the time I use 8 gauge wire, but depending on the size, it might be 10 gauge, 12 gauge, or for the larger projects, 6 gauge wire.
Twisting: If you are just making one Tensor Ring at a time, cut your wire about 3 times the final length you need, then bend it in half and put it around something heavy and solid. However, to be more efficient with my copper, I usually roll out about 40 feet of wire and bend it around the handle on my bench vise. Next, I will put about a 1/4″ to 1/2″ bend on the end of each wire and crimp it down. That makes it easier to grip and stay in the drill. I now twist up enough wire for many rings, while gently pulling back on the drill (See above paragraph about mindset!). If you are twisting it tight enough, the wires inside the drill might break off. When this happens, if the twist is tight enough, you are done. If it’s not tight enough, you can put the wires back in the drill and twist some more. I then cut several pieces that are about 3/8″ to 1/2″ longer than the final length.
Prepping to Braze:
Flattening the ends: The next step is to make one end of each of them completely flat. You could use a metal file, but that takes too long, so I use a 6″ bench grinder. Once you grind the end flat there is probably some copper hanging from the end of the wires, just use a file to remove the excess.
Getting the EXACT Length: You can use a tape measure, but accuracy of length is one of the most important steps in the whole process. So, I use a digital caliper. What I really like about them is they will measure to 100ths of a millimeter accuracy. They can be found online for under $30. Now cut the wire just a bit longer than your final length so you can grind it to the exact measurement. Just grind a little bit at a time off, dip it in some water after each grind, and check it against your caliper after each grind, until it is the exact length.
Matching the ends: It is absolutely critical that when you braze the ends together properly, each wire MUST BE brazed to itself, not the opposite wire. The reason for this is that if done properly, you will have two separate circuits working together to create the powerful Tensor Field. This is the easiest way I’ve found to do this: First, take a permanent marker and mark the end of just one of the wires. Next, place your fingernail on that marked wire, and twist those two wires while keeping your fingernail on the wire until it gets to the other end. If your nail slips off, no big deal, just start over. Now mark the other end of that same wire with the marker. The next step is to hold the wire in the air in front of you with the two wire ends on the left side so that they are horizontal with the ground. (picture two zeros sitting side-by-side, not on top of each other: 00). Now spin the wires horizontally to see how close the other end is to aligning the same way. It seldom is, so now is the time to adjust it. Take two pairs of pliers and twist the wires so that both of the marked ends are facing the same direction.
Shaping the Ring: I like to bend the wires into a horseshoe shape first. This can be done freestyle by hand, but it’s best to bend it around something solid that is close to the diameter of the final ring. I tried many different methods until I found the best one!: I bought a cone-shaped anvil on eBay for around $80.00. It has a 1″ square mandrel on the bottom, and I cut a 1″ square hole in my workbench to hold it. HINT: Before you bend it into the horseshoe shape, hold the wires so that the two ends are still horizontal to the ground, and the black marked ends are away from you. The reasons for this are 1) so you can easily use a wire wheel brush on your drill to clean off the marker, and 2) so when you lay the wires down to braze them, the small piece of brazing rod will rest on the two wires without falling off! Now take your pliers and bend each of the ends towards the middle, towards each other. Your ring will now not be round, it will look more like a capital “D”. This way you can adjust the ends and manipulate the wires so they align perfectly, and naturally rest against each other without pressure. Some people will use a bench vise to force the ends to stay together while they weld, but I have found with practice that my method works quite well. I then place the ring lying down on a 6″ X 6″ square soldering platform ($21 on Amazon) to braze.
Brazing: I don’t use your basic tin solder, as I don’t like the looks, and I don’t think it works as well as brazing. I buy 16″ Copper Brazing Rods that are self-fluxing ($19 on Amazon). These are flat rods. I cut a very small piece, just a little longer than it is wide, so it is a rectangle, not a square. This is all you need if done properly, and it won’t leave an unsightly glob on your weld. Some people will get the ring red-hot, and then just touch the brazing rod to the red-hot ring. Although this does work, I don’t do it this way because you can’t very well control the amount of melted rod on there. You can start with a basic propane torch, but don’t buy propane, buy MAPP gas because it burns hotter (that is how I started, and what I use for smaller gauge rings). If you can afford it, purchase an oxygen/acetylene setup, as it burns way hotter, and is very easy to adjust the flame strength. I got mine at Harbour Freight Tools for under $300. Now that you have the small piece of brazing rod resting on the side of the ring, place the flame pointing at the joint, but come at it from the side, not from the top. The reason is you want to heat the copper until it gets hot enough to melt the brazing rod. Once done, toss it in the water next to you to cool it down. Next, place it on the cone-shaped anvil and beat it into shape using a rubber mallet. Once you have it into a round shape, place it on your workbench and pound it some more with your rubber mallet. This accomplishes two things: 1) it makes it into a flat plane, and 2) when you heat the copper it gets soft. Beating it with a hammer hardens the copper up again. Now it’s ready for cleaning!
Cleaning and Final Touches: Brazing will make some very dark areas on the copper, making it very unsightly. There are several ways to clean it up, some methods are free or cheap with a lot of labor (polishing it with steel wool) and some are easier but more expensive. One inexpensive way to do it is to buy some powdered citric acid ($10 for 2 pounds on Amazon). Mix a couple of ounces of the citric acid with a couple of cups of water, and let the copper ring sit in there overnight. Use gloves as the citric acid will dry out the skin on your hands. This will clean it up, but leave it a little dull. You can then take a polishing cloth and hand polish it up. My best method (and most expensive) is putting it in a tumbler or vibratory bowl. You can get a 5-pound bowl at harbor freight for $65, or an 18-pound bowl for $180. Now the even more expensive part: I tried using the ceramic media that is sold next to the vibratory bowls, but that just made the rings rough and dull. What I got that works perfectly is stainless steel tumbling media from Amazon. I got 20 pounds of: “5 LB 1/8″ Stainless Steel Tumbling Media Shot Jewelers Mix 4 Shapes Tumbler Finishing” which cost me about $200. I know this option sounds expensive, but if you plan on making a lot of these, it will be worth it in the long run. The last thing you need is Burnishing Compound. I use “ShineBright Burnishing Compound Concentrate”, and I fill my vibratory bowl with water and add about 2 ounces of the burnishing compound to it. I then let it run overnight. In the morning, it comes out brilliantly shiny and bright.
And here’s a picture of some finished rings:
Here’s a video of some of the process: